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ENGINE COUPLERS FAILURES

USUAL FAILURE  TYPE AND CAUSES

1) THE RUBBER BREAKS IN TWO PIECES HALF STICK TO HUB THE OTHER IN THE SHELL

CAUSE   IMPACT.  THE COUPLER IS DESIGNED TO SAVE THE GEARS LIKE A FUSE.

ALLIGNMENT IS NOT A PROBLEM IN THIS CASE

2) RUBBER COMES OFF OF HUB

CAUSE EITHER MANUFACTURE PROBLEM OR EXCESSIVE HEAT

3)  HUB SPINS IN THE SHELL

CAUSE MANUFACTURE PROBLEM , NOT SET WHEN NEW, OR OVERLOAD

BUT THE RUBBER SLIPS IN SHELL BEFORE BREAKING IN TWO

4) TEETH IN CENTER HUB IS STRIPPED OUT

CAUSE EITHER THE YOKE IS NOT LUBRICATED AND WEARS OUT OVER TIME

OR IF THE  SPRING WASHER ON THE REAR MOUNT BOLT IS MISSING

WHICH SETS REAR ALLIGNMENT TOO LOW WHICH HANGS WEIGHT ON THE SHAFT.

5) RUBBER BETWEEN THE HUB AND SHELL MELTS

CAUSE FAULTY ALLIGNMENT

REASONS POSSABLE

1) THE FRONT MOUNTS SCREWED DOWN AND LOWERED THE ENGINE.

2) THE WOOD THAT THE MOUNTS SITS DOWN,    GOT ROTTED AND CRUSHED DOWN.

3) THE WOOD WHICH MAKES THE CORE OF THE TRANSOM ROTTED WHICH

ALLOWS THE TRANSOM PLATE TO TILT UNDER ACCELLERATION.

TESTING TRANSOM

TO TEST THIS PROBLEM, SET THE UNIT DOWN, HAVE A HEAVY PERSON STAND

ON THE UNIT ABOVE THE PROP AND BOUNCE HIS WEIGHT ON THE UNIT.

SIGHT THE TRANSOM FROM THE SIDE WHILE HE BOUNCES AND OBSERVE

THE RELATION OF THE TRANSOM PLATE AND THE TRANSOM.

IF THE TOP COMES OUT AND THE BOTTOM CAVES INTO THE TRANSOM

YOU HAVE A ROTTEN TRANSOM AND MUST BE REPAIRED

BEFORE THE COUPLER IS REPLACED.

TESTING ALLIGNMENT

USING THE ALLIGNMENT BAR, PLACE THE BAR THROUGH THE BEARING INTO THE COUPLER

BE SURE THAT THE BAR IS COMPLETELY IN (HIT THE END WITH MALLET)

WHILE THE BAR IN PLACE HIT THE OUTSIDE END OF THE BAR WITH A MALLET

FROM THE TOP AND FROM THE SIDE. THIS ALLIGNS THE BEARING WITH THE TOOL

THEN GRASP THE END OF THE BAR AND TRY  TO PULL IT OUT AND REMOVE

IF THE ALLIGNMENT IS GOOD THE BAR CAN BE REMOVED WITH YOUR THUMB AND FORFINGER.

IF THE BAR IS TIGHT,  MOVE THE FRONT OF THE ENGINE TO CORRECTLY SET THE ALLIGNMENT.