1) Start with outdrive down and control box in forward gear..

2) Remove the nuts holding the rearward ram anchor pin, save parts..

3) Pull the rams off of the rear pin save parts..

4) Remove the six 5/8 locking nuts from the outdrive at the bell housing.

5) Bump the unit downward or drop it lightly to break the seal between the drive and bell housing.

6) Pull rearward on the unit and it should fall into your arms for repair.

7)"But it wouldn’t come off"

8) If it wouldn’t come off there are several tricks to remove it. They are in order of difficulty.

9) Step 1 Try a piece of wood or metal across the two ears at the bottom of the ring, drop the unit on it.

10) Step 2 Try a piece of wood or metal between the cap front and ring, then bring the unit up to hit it.

11) Step 3 Last resort, jam something between cap and ring, put the rams back on and trim up.

12) All of the above steps help push the unit outward and off, If the problem had been the gimgal bearing stuck on the shaft the bearing might still be there when the unit comes off.

13) Clean surfaces of drive and bell housing.

REPLACEMENT OF DRIVE---------------------------------------------

14) After checking gimbal bearing and bellows for leaks, install new o/d mounting set.

15) Yellow glue the large square ‘O’ ring to the shoulder in the bell.

16) Yellow glue the Water passage in the grove on the bell.

17) Replace the "o" rings on the shaft of the drive.

18) Grease the gasket and place it over the studs of the bell.

19) Two people are usually required for the next steps.

20) Stand the unit upright and rotate the brass shifter (intermediate shift shaft) clockwise looking down .

21) The travel of the shifter should be from 10:00 to 12:00 looking down 12:00 being straight ahead.

22) The shifting should be center of boat fwd, front pass seat neutral, rear pass seat rev.

23) The shift box in the boat should still be in forward.

24) As you rotate the shifter clockwise , turn the prop ccw until it locks.

25) Never allow the prop to go clockwise or it will rotate the shifter out of position, go back to 24.

26) On the bell housing of the transom plate is a shift arm with a roller on it.

27) The slide aluminum piece on the cable tip has two arms which go to the top with the arms inward.

28) Place the roller from the shift arm between these two arms and the track below the shift shaft should be facing straight ahead, this is where the top of the brass shifter on the drive slides in upon installation.

29) With the drive in forward (24) guide the tip of the drive yoke through the gimble bearing.

30) Slide the unit forward and as soon as it reaches guide the slide into the square hole on the drive.

31) Look in the right side and recheck the shift arm (28) position and roller position.

32) Slide the unit forward until the main shaft hits the coupler spline, it probably won’t go in.

33) Forcing the prop c.c.w. will rotate the shaft until it slides in, Keep pressure inward as you turn.

34) Once the shaft goes into the coupler the unit will no longer turn ccw do not force it.

35)Bump the unit forward with the palms of your hands until the drive seats, recheck the roller.(28)

36) If the unit resists installation lift the unit and check that the track on the upper shift is straight and that the brass shifter is going into it smoothly and straight.

37) Bump the unit the rest of the way on and replace the nuts and washers.

38)It is good to check the shifting after only two nuts so if removal is required it saves time.

39)Replace the trim rams and bushings.